Saturday, June 20, 2009

How To Set Your Digital Camera To Save The Best Photos!

Your digital camera will save your photo files one of three ways.

It will save your photos in a file format as ’.jpeg’, ’.tiff’ or ’.raw’, or as a combination of these!

But how do ’.jpeg’, ’.tiff’ and ’.raw’ work? Which one should you use? And what will give you the best photo?

Well, most use ’.jpeg’ as it can shrink the file size greatly making it fast and easy.

Tiff will provide an extremely high quality image because it doesn’t use compression.

Raw will record the image exactly as the camera sees it - with no image adjusting at all, unlike ’.jpeg’ or ’.tiff’.

Depending on your camera, not all formats will be available. Don’t fear - all digital cameras are set to ’.jpeg’ by default and it can give you exceptional images if you follow these simple tips below!

What do these file formats mean and when should you use them?

**Jpeg**

The default format on your camera will most likely be ’.jpeg’. It will save your photo files quickly to the memory card whilst producing the smallest file.

Jpeg - which stands for ’Joint Photographic Experts Group’ - will shrink your file as it saves it to your memory card. It uses a ’lossy’ compression, which will ’throw away’ parts of your image data to reduce the file size.

However rather than being a ’bad’ format, ’.jpeg’ will produce fast, small image files that are easy to use in photo-editing software.

What you should know about ’.jpeg’! Your digital camera’s menu settings for saving jpeg files are often called ’high’, ’medium’ and ’low’. Your photo will be saved as the quality you select.

Choosing ’high’ will give you the best photo quality, take the longest to save and produces the biggest file size - which takes up the most room on your memory card.

’Low’ saves the poorest quality photo in a smaller file that takes up less room on your memory card.

’Medium’ is in- between.

I.e. you can take more photos on the same memory card with a ’low’ setting than you can with ’high’.

However I would strongly recommend you always use ’high’ or the ’best’ setting on your camera.

Choosing ’low’ or ’medium’ will reduce the quality of your photo dramatically! It also effectively reduces mega-pixels that your digital camera can take!

So if you’ve got a 6 mega-pixel digital camera and set the jpeg quality to anything other than the ’best’ setting, you will be affectively taking photos with a 4 mega-pixel camera or less! Why would you use a 6 mega-pixel camera as a 4 mega-pixel?

Do not reduce your jpeg quality - ever! Always set it to the very best setting available.

That way if you want to crop or enlarge that ’idyllic’ landscape you took last week to a reasonable size there will be no problem. Reduce the jpeg quality and you could be unhappy with the result!

One final note on jpeg:

You should never open, edit and save ’.jpeg’ repeatedly on your computer, as it will give you poor results!

Opening and saving the same image as ’.jpeg’ over and over will case the image to become ’soft’ and in extreme cases, even blurry. Saving the image once or twice will be fine but if you need to do multiple editing use ’save-as’ and then select ’.tiff’ instead of ’.jpeg’.

**Tiff** Tiff (Tagged Image File Format) offers high quality images because it does not use any compression.

Not every digital camera will have ’.tiff’ as a file format option. You will need a good size memory card if you use ’.tiff’ as the files can be very large. So why would you use ’.tiff’?

When you see that ’gorgeous’ sunset or ’perfect’ scene and you know that you will probably enlarge it to poster size - then shoot with ’.tiff’.

However, for everyday photos, save yourself time and memory space, set the camera to highest quality jpeg, and your pictures will still look awesome!

**Raw** Many professional photographers use ’.raw’ as their file format. Raw saves the image with no adjustments whatsoever and most consider it the true ’digital negative’.

That means no sharpening, no color adjustment, no exposure correction and no white balance. You need to do these later on your computer.

To use ’.raw’ you must have a photo-editing program that can translate the ’.raw’ file, which often comes with your camera. T

he file sizes of ’.raw’ are larger than ’.jpeg’ but only about 1/3 the size of ’.tiff’.

Using ’.raw’ takes some practice, as often the results may be not what you expected! Digital cameras make so many adjustments automatically that an image taken without them can be startling! Raw will suit the advanced amateur or professional photographer.

So of these file formats of ’.jpeg’, ’.tiff’ and ’.raw’, which one should you use on a regular basis? Jpeg will give you swiftness and acceptable compressing. And it’ll give you exceptional images whilst not taking up valuable memory space.

To compare a high quality ’.jpeg’ with a ’.tiff’ or ’.raw’ at an enlargement of 8x10 or 11x14 inches, you won’t find dramatic differences - when taken on the same camera. Most photographers prefer the widely used ’.jpeg’. You will find it extremely easy to use with very good speed; and set at the best quality, rarely will you need to venture past it. However, if you do see that once-in-a-lifetime shot - use ’.raw’ so adjustments can be made later… but you should be comfortable with its format.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Understanding Red-Eye in photos and how it can be prevented

Red-eye is a phenomenon that happens only when taking photos using a flash. When taking photos in day light or when in high ambient light scenarios people’s eyes look normal. When taking pictures in low ambient light scenarios using a flash the result many times is redness in the people’s eyes.The reason for the color red is simple – when flash light from the camera hits the eyes it penetrates and is reflected back from the retina. The color of the reflected light is red because the light is actually reflected from the red blood in the retina.In some scenarios the red-eye is evident while in others it is mild or doesn’t seem to appear at all. One of the main factors for that is the state of the pupils. If the pupils are dilated (for example the pupils dilate in darkness or when drinking alcohol) more light is reflected back from the retina and the eyes in the photo appear redder.Common way to reduce red-eyeThe most commonly used method to reduce red-eye is activating the camera’s built-in red-eye reduction feature. The red-eye reduction feature is very simple yet effective. When turned on the camera shoots a series of pre-flash strobes followed by one more strobe when actually taking the photo. The pre-flash strobes cause the pupils to reduce in size and by the time the photo is taken the pupils are small enough for the eye redness to substantially reduce. The red-eye reduction feature does what it is supposed to do: reduce the red-eye effect but almost never is it completely prevented. There are many limitations to this feature for example pupils reaction time to light can vary. In addition this feature can have a side-effect that results in photos having people’s eyes closed. The reason is that the pre-flash strobes blind the people and cause them to close their eyes.Other ways to prevent red-eyeUnderstanding what causes red-eye helps being more creative in preventing it. Following are some ways to prevent red-eye other than using the built-in camera red-eye reduction feature:Increasing the light where photos are taken (for example by turning on the lights in a room before taking photos of people) causes people’s pupils to reduce in size and eye redness to reduce.Point the flash away from the eyes. Since red-eye is caused by flash light reflected from the retina the best way to prevent red-eye would be to eliminate such reflection as much as possible. In most cameras the angle between the flash and the lenses is narrow (this is especially true for built-in flash and pocket cameras) causing most of the flash to bounce back from the retina to the lenses. Increasing the angle (for example by using an external flash) reduces the reflected light. You can also use a bounce flash – by having the flash light bounce off a bright surface (a white wall or a professional reflector) most of the direct reflection from the retina can be eliminated.Red-eye can also be removed after photos were already taken by using photo processing software on your PC. Most digital cameras include a CD with PC software that embeds this feature. Although this method doesn’t eliminate the red-eye from the source it can result in a practically red-eye free photo. Some software are better than others some are manual while others automatically identify the red-eyes and process that area to revert to normal eye colors.